Blanc Agité, Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat
Blanc Agité, 2018, Anne et Jean-Francois Ganevat
A funky step in the world of the natural wine king - a cult classic, and a best seller.
Region: Jura, France
Grape(s): Chardonnay & Savagnin
Low Sulphur: Yes
Tasting Notes: Yellow stone fruits, bergamot, tangerine, chalk
Jean-Francois Ganevat is the 14th generation of his family to be making wines in Rotalier, southern Jura. Having learnt his craft working in the cellar of Jean-Marc Morey in Burgundy, he returned to Jura – the region east of Burgundy, close to the border with Switzerland – in 1998. He converted the estate to organic and then biodynamic in 2006. He makes approximately 45 wines, all single terroir wines highlighting the variation in soil types and how these lead to vastly different wines and drinking experiences. The domaine is only 8.5 hectares, with very old low-yielding vines, so he has a large negociant side to his winemaking –he buys grapes from trusted grape growers, both in Jura and slightly further afield, who have similar philosophies as him in their vineyard work. He is one of the most renowned and sought after natural wine producers, and we are very lucky to have received a small allocation of a couple of his wines.
Agité means restless, and this live and energy pretty much sums up all of Ganevat’s wines. This is 50% Chardonnay and 50% Savagnin (the lauded local variety, used for the production of Vin Jaune). The Savagnin is macerated on the skins for a prolonged period to extract lots of complexity and depth of flavour. The unmacerated chardonnay brings a balanced freshness to the wine, which is aged in old oak barrels and topped up in the ouillé style to prevent oxidation. Bottled unfined, unfiltered and without any added SO2 – because what else would JF. Ganevat do? Restless, persistent and wonderfully deep, you get plenty of stone fruits, orange citrus, apple, minerality and a rich texture. Get it while you can!