Concerto di Venezia, Robinot
Concerto di Venezia, 2019, Robinot
Rustic red with lively acidity and wild character
Region: Loire, France
Grape(s): Pineau d’Aunis
Low Sulphur: Zero
Tasting Notes: Strawberry, redcurrant, earthy, stable, pepper
Jean-Pierre Robinot is a natural wine legend, previously working in Paris and meeting many natural wine pioneers which lead him to open L’Ange Vin - a natural wine bar dedicated to these ‘angellic’ wines. He also founded France’s leading natural wine magazine ‘Le Rouge et le Blanc’ and become a dominant force in those sides of the business. In the early 2000s, he was drawn back to Loire (where he grew up) to make wine in the way that he loved so dearly. Jean-Pierre, together with his wife Noella, farms around seven hectares of vines on a mix of red clay, silex and limestone – tended organically, with lots of biodynamic remedies based on nettles and ferns. They are also making some wines on grapes they buy from local farmers, including some prestigious natural winemakers. The cold and deep caves before these vines, carved out of the limestone soil, provide cool and stable conditions which allow long fermentations and ageing. Pure natural, with nothing ever added, he is very highly regarded and is now showing his daughter, Juliette, the ropes so the legend may live on.
Concerto di Venezia is made on Pineau d’Aunis – a local and very old varietal, that was favoured by Henry III of England in the mid-13th century – with grapes bought from similarly legendary Philippe Tessier in Touraine. The grapes are whole bunch fermented and then aged for fifteen months on the lees in old barrels. There is an earthy, stable and rustic quality to Pineau d’Aunis, which sings through this wine but is balanced with wild strawberry, white pepper, light tannins and a fresh acidity. It is complex, but can be contemplated just as easily as it can be quaffed.