Bigotes, Frédéric Cossard
Bigotes, 2019, Frédéric Cossard
An edgy, modern style of white Burgundy from one of the heavyweights
Region: Burgundy, France
Low Sulphur: Yes
Tasting Notes: Pear, apple, lemon, minerals, buttery, saline
Frédéric Cossard doesn’t come from a wine family - something of a rarity in Burgundy. Regardless, he started Domaine de Chassorney in 1996 and has gradually acquired more land. Now operating from a 10 hectare Domaine, he also has a négociant line, which is simply bottled under his own name. He has been organic since the start, and now utilises some biodynamic remedies in the vineyards. He has the same high standards for his bought grapes, and gives guides and regular visits to his growers to make sure they live up to these standards. High standards, particularly of hygiene, are clearly present in the cellar too. Fred used to work as a dairy farmer, and the meticulous nature of that work has carried over into his winemaking. As a result, his wines are made without any added SO2 but have a real elegance and finesse. His whites are pressed directly as whole bunches into barrels, usually around 3 years old, where they age on the fine lees. Meanwhile, reds macerate as whole bunches for around a month in open casks, and then age in barrels on the lees. Simply worked, but with precision and keen attention to detail, his wines are anything but mundane and offer purity, energy, tension and complexity with drinkability.
Using Chardonnay from 40 year old vine planted on clay and limestone around Puilgny-Montrachet, Bigotes is vinified as mentioned above – whole bunch pressed into oak where it ages on the lees for a little under a year. It gives you what you want from a higher end white Burgundy: opulence, buttery texture and minerality. It also gives you a whole lot more with stone fruits aplenty, salinity, tension and energy bounding through every sip.