Bedeau, Frédéric Cossard
Bedeau, 2019, Frédéric Cossard
An edgy, modern style of red Burgundy from a natural wine legend
Region: Burgundy, France
Grape(s): Pinot Noir
Low Sulphur: Yes
Tasting Notes: Red berries, iron, bloodiness, finesse, gentle funk
Frédéric Cossard doesn’t come from a wine family - something of a rarity in Burgundy. Regardless, he started Domaine de Chassorney in 1996 and has gradually acquired more land. Now operating from a 10 hectare Domaine, he also has a négociant line, which is simply bottled under his own name. He has been organic since the start, and now utilises some biodynamic remedies in the vineyards. He has the same high standards for his bought grapes, and gives guides and regular visits to his growers to make sure they live up to these standards. High standards, particularly of hygiene, are clearly present in the cellar too. Fred used to work as a dairy farmer, and the meticulous nature of that work has carried over into his winemaking. As a result, his wines are made without any added SO2 but have a real elegance and finesse. His whites are pressed directly as whole bunches into barrels, usually around 3 years old, where they age on the fine lees. Meanwhile, reds macerate as whole bunches for around a month in open casks, and then age in barrels on the lees. Simply worked, but with precision and keen attention to detail, his wines are anything but mundane and offer purity, energy, tension and complexity with drinkability.
Bedeau uses Pinot Noir coming from two parcels. With 40 year old vines around Volnay and 50 year old vines in Nuits-Saint-Georges, from Fred’s négoce line, this is modern-style red Burgundy. Vinified as above, with whole bunches macerated for around a month before aging in old barrels, It had generous red fruits, an iron/saline edge, delicate but present tannins from the whole bunches and depth aplenty. 2019 is an exceptional red Burgundy vintage and this wine is a true representation of that. Light, with vibrant energy and finesse, it is a true wonder.