Carantina, 2019, Monteforche
Smoky and zesty light orange wine that shows off volcanic terroir
Region: Veneto, Italy
Low Sulphur: Yes
Tasting Notes: Citrus zest, unripe pineapple, minerality, smokiness, feint tannin
In Eastern Italy, close to Padua in the foothills of the volcanic Colli Euganei or Euganean Hills, Alfonso Soranzo is making wines on a 4.5 hectare estate in the same way his forefathers did around the small village of Zovon di Vò. His vines are tended to organically and Alfonso does all the work both in the vineyards and the cellar. The vineyards are volcanic and full of fossils, are the heat is mitigated by some altitude and the cooling breezes from the Adriatic so the vines have a lot of work to do, bringing a tension and minerality to all the wines. In the cellar, he works with a hands-off approach, with skin contact, spontaneous fermentations, lees ageing and little added sulphur all prominent methods of his winemaking.
Local grape variety Garganega springs to life with even a little skin contact, and the grapes from these 50-plus year old vineyards are fermented on the skins for five days with a small proportion of whole bunches. The wine rests for a year in concrete vats on the lees, so add some depth and roundness to the wine that is dominated by minerality and acidity. Lots of unripe pineapple, citrus together with a smoky and mineral edge and a slight tannin – it screams of a nearby volcano.