Rosammare, 2019, Barraco
Sour red berries to refresh and savour
Region: Sicily, Italy
Grape(s): Nero d’Avola
Low Sulphur: Yes
Tasting Notes: Red currant, sour cranberry, green herbs, acidity, acidity, acidity
Nino Barraco is based in the ‘Port of God’ (or Mars el-Allah, as the Moors called it in the Middle Ages, now Marsala) on the western tip of Sicily. Known for its fortified wine, Marsala is now home to many winemakers making dry white wines with some salty characteristics from its proximity to the sea breeze. Nino is one of the frontrunners here, having taken over from his parents at their vineyard in 2004. He immediately converted to organic farming, to allow the grapes to best express their terroir – a mindset he extends to the making of plenty of single vineyard wines to express the difference in those parcels. His vineyards are spread up and down the coast, and each ones shows a different moment and place of the West of Sicily, in the Port of God. Vibrant and full of life, the wines are truly God-like and have a place in the heart of our sommelier-at-large since a trip to Sicily in 2019.
Using Nero d’Avola planted on sandy soils, the Rosammare (or ‘rosé of the sea’) is everything its name suggests. Grapes are harvested early when they are still a little tart, and macerated on the skins for just one night to give some bright fruit character to this light rosé. It rests in concrete for around six months and is bottled without any additions or fining/filtering. It is fresh, with saliva inducing acidity in the form of pure and under ripe red currant, cranberry and raspberry.